Arlington, VA

No Hot Water In Restaurant: Arrived at location for Water heater not working. We inspected the hot water coming out from the fixtures and we were receiving hot water. Chef then told us they barely get hot water in their busiest hours of the day. We went up To inspect the water heater, it was shooting a ignition code. We called Tech Support for AO Smith. They told us to check the ignition spark plug. The wire to the ignition spark was brittle and it broke. The spark plug also looked burnt out. We proceeded to change out the Ignition spark plug and install a new one. Made the repair and proceeded to turn on the Water heater. Water heater started to work perfectly normal and the code was no longer on the screen. Cleaned up our area and left.

System is a 2002 Air handler/ Straight AC. Checked all components for proper operation found no issues with components. Secured any loose wires and checked for dirt and debris. Found blower is needs to be cleaned along with evaporator coil. Evaporator coil has lots a lot rust as well because of age. System does not have an Air Scrubber or Humidifier. Checked condenser unit for proper operation. System runs on R22 which has been banned since 2020. Checked all starting components and refrigerant levels found system is working. Found standing pressures to outside temp is off by 10 psi advise customer to keep an eye on the system when it gets hot. No collection VIP membership

I arrived at my customer for unit #4 not working I did a full system check and find one bad control board and blower fan motor I recommend a replacement of these parts I will provide pricing for replacement by proposal

FALL MAINTENANCE ON TWO UNITS. #1 MAIN FLOOR UNIT LOCATED IN THE BASEMENT RHEEM 80% GAS FURNACE FROM 2021 I checked the filter and found clogged , the client will be responsible for ordering and replacing the filter. I checked the indoor blower wheel motor housing compartment for any obstructions and found none. I checked blower amps and found pulling within specs. I checked the Inducer draft motor and flue vent pipe and found okay. Induce amps also within specs. I checked and cleaned the burners and heat exchanger. I checked the flame sensor and ignitior and found okay. I checked the gas valve and gas pressures. I checked all wiring and connections and all limits and safetys working properly. I got a temperature rise of 45. I checked all duct work and found it to be fairly clean , it seems that it had been cleaned about 3 years ago. Upon arrival the client had a few questions regarding duct cleaning. I suggested to the client that if the ducts were dirty , I would recommend first

Replace Mixing Valve: arrived at location to replaced mixing valve and new disinfecting faucet, the mixing valve was an easy in and out no issues occured but the disinfectant was a big more complex, had to cut a hole in the kitchen wall to fit my arms in, the line was getting feed by pex. the disinfectant station now has 2 stop on it for safety, very tight spot to get through manged to fit chanclde locks in. seems like the other material that I brought were having a hard time preventing it from leaking but managed to find a supply tube and stopped it from leaking. Cover holes up with vents grills, no leaks occured at this moment.

Basement bathroom shower is dripping constantly. Older American style. Gave customer investment option to rebuild hot and cold stems to stop any further leaks in area. Customer agreed. Went to truck and acquired materials and returned inside. Removed stems and removed gaskets on both. Hot side is in worse condition, as usual due to temperature changes. Installed double gaskets on both stems to lengthen lifespan. Repressured water system and bled air from piping. Inspected area and there are no further drips from shower system. Thank you for choosing Vito! 30-day warranty on today's repairs

Gas Control Valve: arrived onsite, found water heater T&P valve still leaking into bucket. turned off water heater valve and opened faucet to drain lines. connected pump to WH drain and pumped out approximately 15 gallons of water. removed discharge pipe and existing T&P valve from side outlet. installed new valve and tightened into unit. turned WH valve back on and let unit fill. opened faucets and bled air from lines. also changed kitchen utility sink aerator as courtesy. checked water heater for leaks. reconnected discharge pipe to new T&P valve after confirming new installation is leak free. cleaned up and removed all job related debris.

Kitchen Sink Stoppage: arrived at the job. started testing the sink to make sure how far was the clog but apparently the tech clean it so I just ran water to made sure it was clean. collected all my tools. Thank you for Choosing Vito Services 🙂

FURNACE MAKING NOISE checked furnace found inducer draft motor has dry bearing and sqealing, had to pick up part from supply house, replaced part, checked operation furnace is working heating fine at this time, checked temperature rise 30-60 return air temperature 70 , supply air temperature 125 CARRIER MODEL NUMBER 58STA070-12 SERIAL NUMBER 400818001

return to my customer home for reservice to check pressure at the outdoor unit on the roof I did a full system check and found outdoor unit low 3 lb or 410A I recommend adding 3 lb of refrigerant or replacement of the system customer would like to add refrigerant I added 3 lb of refrigerant to the system possible leak at the outdoor TXV stock in the closed position I tap on the TXV to open it Carrier heat pump system working at this time if system do not perform in the next few months customer like to replace outdoor unit. Carrier two ton

arrived onsite, connected transfer pump & garden hose to water heater drain valve and drained tank into nearby sump pit. disconnected thermopile, pilot supply line, burner supply tube, and piezo wiring from existing gas valve control. once tank was drained and valve connections were disconnected, removed control valve from water heater tank. installed new gas control valve in place. put back necessary connections to new valve. next, removed existing gas piping to water heater. picked up cap for new sediment trap. installed tee fitting to connect to unit and to serve as a sediment trap. turned WH valve at top of tank on and refilled tank. once tank was full, opened 2 faucets on 1st floor and ran until all air was bled out and had a steady stream of water flowing. turned gas control valve on and turned temperature dial to necessary setting. cleaned up and removed all job related debris.

I arrived at my customer home for system not working properly customer have thermostat set at 72 room temperature is reading 68 I turned on the emergency heat because outdoor units not performing it is very windy and cold need to return on Tuesday after 12:00 p.m. to check pressure properly on the roof.

FALL CHECK FURNACE MAKING NOISE checked and replaced customer supplied filter 16x25x1, checked indoor blower motor and wheel found no ecm motor surge protector, cleaned and checked burners and heat exchanger, checked inducer draft motor and flue, checked all safeties and limits, checked all water lines , tubes and condensate pump, checked temperature rise 35-65 , return air temperature 68 , supply air temperature 109 checked the strange noise sound found blue tarp covering intake/ exhaust pipe ( consintric pipe ) BRYANT MODEL NUMBER 912SD30040E14 SERIAL NUMBER 4519A59278 heat is working solved problem BY phone

Install New Compressor, Under Warranty: recovered all old refrigerant and pulled old compressor and set and installed new compressor and tied all line back in and pressurized/evacuated system and charged system and ran equipment and checked for proper operation

I arrived at my customer home for the heat pump system not heating I did a full system check and find one broken wire I reconnected all wires check all amps and components heat pump system working at this time.

arrived onsite, customer's 50 gallon gas water heater not working. attempted to light pilot to no avail - gas control valve flashed red 7 times indicating the problem is the gas valve control. also made sure WH can be drained when we replace control valve because the WH drain is a poor quality plastic fitting usually seen on Rheem water heater. also gave customer price to replace unit completely and upgrade venting to 3" for $3,776 but he opted to just replace gas valve control for now. had office order necessary part with an estimated arrival time of Thursday 2/20 or Friday 2/21. please schedule job for Thursday or Friday.

arrived at location to replace drain line with 4-inch cast iron hub, cut off the line and connected the 3in line with PVC and the rest with PVC, put back brick to the 90 and concrete the wall back up, during this process of pipe there were many people flushing but we manage to work around it and this also helped determine if we had any leaks in which no leaks occured.

arrived on site for a plumbing inspection and started by flushing heater while flushing inspected all plumbing in the house house pressure is at 65psi and while flushing heater notice heater is from 2006 making it 19 years old and also if heater was replaced will need a cheminy liner pero code. while inspecting the rest of the plumbing in the house found old flapper in top floor toilet then brought issues i found to the customer and as for today customer said he's ok and explained issues on old heaters but customer said he will wait for the heater to go bad wrapped hose up and thank you for choosing Vito.

Upon arrival customer concerns no heat. System was is running. Compressor is making very loud noises. Checked amperage and found compressor is amping correctly. Checked capacitor and found it in good standing. Checked pressure and found compressor is not compressing. Indicating compressor has failed from lock rotor meaning the compressors pump has locked up. Need to order new compressor for system to work. Compressor is under warranty and customer bought extended labor warranty. Once compressor comes in with return to install. We need to collect dispatch fee from home owner $120 Compressor Model:ZP21K7E-PFV-130 Serial: 23E999A1M Condenser Model: 25SCA524A301 Serial: 2123E16448

arrived on site, the customer advised me that they just had a water heater installed yesterday and that the water does not stay hot. upon entering the residence the maintenance guy Informed that the water only stays hot for about 5 min. he also advised that the hot water in the guest shower would stay hot lo ger than the shower in the master bedroom. upon further investigation I started to test each element to to insure that the water heater was getting shower. I tested the in coming power to the tank and got ,250v I tested 120v on each screw of the element indicating that's its getting 240v. I called tech support to run me through a diagnostic. after the test and diagnostic tech support claim that the heater is in good working condition and it's something else causing the water to get cold quickly. I called my plumbing manager john to get a more detailed explanation on what might be happening. I was advised that it couple possibly be the shower head that's has a high gpm causing the

FALL CHECK GAS BOILER checked and cleaned burners and heat exchanger, checked motorized vent damper and operation, checked flue pipe and draft, pressure temperature gauge, circulator pump, all safeties and limits, cleaned and checked electronic ignition and flame sensor, cleaned flushed and cleaned fill valve and back flow preventer, extrol expansion tank,, found slow filling because of copper to galvanized pipe BURNHAM MODEL NUMBER P-206-WI SERIAL NUMBER 17 124447

Insulate Piping: arrived on site to put insulation on the pipe that was recently repaired, tried to put 1-1/2 insulation but was still too small for the 1-1/4 in pipe, heat wire was too thick, tried instead with 2 in insulation, insulated all 80 feet with the 2 in insulation, both on the 4th and 1st floors, taped all the insulation to make sure it wouldn't move, cleaned up work area and left

Gas Leak Fix: arrived on site contacted customer to advise when I will get started on repairing the leak. went to knock the resident door to get access to the unit. once inside of the unit I turned the gas valve off that's located behind the stove. AFter, went into the basement area and disconnected the customer side to release any gas still in the line. the space where the was located in a small crawl space where you have to actually crawl into. no standing space. prefabricated all fitting before going into the crawl space. gathered all materials and crawled into the area where the leak was located. cut out the old existing pipe and discovered that a pin hole developed causing the gas leak. used two mega press coupling to tie back into the old existing pipe. pressed all fitting. crawled back out to pressurized the 3/4 line using the air compressor. I put approximately 7 psi into the line. the pressure stayed consistent for about 10 min. that gave me the green light to say everything

#1 Gas Leak: arrived on site contacted the customer, the customer advised me that they have a gas leak inside of a unit coming from the kitchen area. Washington gas visited the site and a confirmed that the gas leak is coming from the kitchen area. upon further investigation I used a leak detector to determine where the gas leak was coming from. I really couldn't get an active good reading from the leak detector so I used the air compressor to pressurized the pipe. I closed off the valve from the regulator close out the valve at the stove appliance and also closed off the valve at the dryer appliance. watch those valves were turned off I didn't pumped up to about 10 psi inside of the 3/4 and Instantly the psi dropped. instantly I knew their was a leak somewhere on the line. I pumped about 10-15 more psi inside of the the line. once all the way pressurized I heard the air escaping. I heard air escaping in the crawl space area. crawled back to where I heard the air and observed that the

LOUD NOISE COMING FROM FURNACE 90% HIGH EFFICIENCY GAS FURNACE I went to the thermostat and it was set to 71 and satisfied. The client complained of a loud noise. I cut the system off and called the fan and the fan kicked on loudly and ran. I came down to the furnace and I checked the 10 MFD capacitor and found okay. I checked to see if the blower motor and shaft was loose and it was not. I checked to see if any bolts or connections were rubbing against each other and there wasn't. Blower Max amps is 7A and it's pulling 6.6 amps on the high side. I checked the unit amps max amps is 9a drawing 8a. The indoor blower motor is failing and pulling high amps. This occurs over time due to wear and tear. I inspected the unit further. I called for heat and the inducer draft motor was also louder than usual. Max amps is .75 drawing .69 amps. Parts like the flame sensor and ignitior have wear and tear on them also. This furnace has reach its life expectancy. I don't recommend investing and maki